What I Ate For Dinner

The reasons for making risotto are innumerable: it's cheap, it's delicious, it's easy, and, unlike some entrees that call for a single, authorial genius at the controls, risotto is better with friends, especially since it calls for a bit of stirring.

But don't let the stirring dissuade you: in fact, you don't really have to stir constantly, but you do need to remain attentive throughout because the combination of high heat and gelatinous wonder can quickly become scorched sludge. That said, a trained bonobo could make this; so don't freak out about the stirring.

The main ingredient is Arborio rice, a short-grained rice available pretty much everywhere. There's really no good reason to deviate from tradition here and try another rice: the box of Arborio I got today is good for 8 or so entrée sized servings and cost $2.59. Mark Bittman tells us that the classic Risotto alla Milanese calls for bone marrow and saffron. Hey, if you've got it, by all means! But if not, allow me to humbly submit a San Franciscan interpretation: for body, I add some roasted garlic, and for color, I add diced sweet potatoes and sundried tomatoes, in addition to the traditional shallot. The result is a handsome mélange of structure, color, flavor and creaminess.

The only other ingredients are stock and white wine. I'm using a fish stock today, but I've done it with vegetable and chicken stock, too. Needless to say, a homemade stock is best; but I rarely make stocks myself, and instead rely on a local grocer who sells their housemade stuff. If you can't get your hands on a homemade stock, the stuff in the cardboard canteens will do. Avoid cans if possible. The problem with these stocks and broths is that they're universally over salted. A true stock has no salt. If you use the store-bought varieties, be very judicious when salting to taste.

Since friction is important in breaking down the starchy shell of the Arborio, I recommend a sauce pan with tall sides and a smaller cooking surface than a fry or sauté pan. The smaller circumference and superior depth of the sauce pan maximize friction and make for smaller strokes when stirring, thereby limiting fatigue. Wine and reggae also limit fatigue.

There are only three steps to making risotto:

1. Sauté the shallots and potatoes until soft.
2. Add the rice (n.b.: the rice will nearly triple in volume, so a modest handful makes for a hearty entrée), coat with butter and then pour in enough stock to almost cover. Bring to simmer while stirring.
3. Stir until liquid is incorporated into rice and pan is nearly dry. Add garlic paste, which is just roasted garlic mixed with a little water. Then add more liquid (again, enough to almost cover the rice, but not so much as make the concoction soupy) and continue stirring on medium high heat. I usually add 3 parts stock and one part white wine. Repeat the process of stirring and reduction several times. Add the reconstituted sundried tomatoes and thyme (optional) near the end.

The risotto is done when it is creamy, but still has structure: there should be texture to each grain of rice, but also a melted creaminess to the dish as a whole. This can take about 30 minutes for four entrée portions.

To finish, I grate Parmigiano Reggiano over the top and garnish with herbs. Serve with toasted baguette and side salad. For my taste, a full-flavored dish like Risotto calls for a subdued, crisp white wine: Keeping it an all Italian affair, Pinot Grigio is a great bet, although a not-too sweet Chardonnay would work, too. For reds, a Chianti or Sangiovese would go marvelously.